The final stop of our ‘Tour de Lithuania’ was Kaunas where we stayed with family again, this time in the centre of Kaunas in one of the many high-rise apartment buildings which seem to be the home of choice for many Lithuanians. There was one particular place we wanted to visit during our time in Kaunas which was sadly closed the previous time we had visited, that place was the Ninth Fort.
Ninth Fort
After breakfast on our first full day in Kaunas we headed north to the Ninth Fort. Arriving nice and early ensured the museum was a little quieter so we could take it all in. We opted for the English tour guide which allowed me to learn so much more than I would have without an English speaking guide.
When we entered the museum, we were greeted by a large room containing images, artifacts, and information about the fort and what it was intended for when built. It also showcased a number of pictures from various wars and the deportations of Lithuanians to Serbia.
The tour took around two hours where we visited guard’s offices, prison cells and the outside areas used for mass murder at the fort. When the build was completed in 1913, the Ninth Fort of Kaunas Fortress was intended by the Russian Empire to protect the strategically important Linkuva Hill. However, in 1915, the fort and whole fortress were occupied by the German Army after the retreat of Russian troops in World War 1.
After the war, the fort was used as a hard labour prison before Lithuania was incorporated into the Soviet Union. It was then used as a camp for mass murder throughout the Second World War where over 50,000 men, women and children were murdered. When I learned of this information, it was hard to comprehend the levels of loss and destruction caused in just one location in World War 2, let alone the rest of the senseless murdering across the world at this time.
I always think it’s hard to understand just how many lives are stolen in wars across the world and it’s something I have always struggled with. Although I hate everything about war and the needless devastation it causes, I also think it’s really important that we learn about it and never forget what our ancestors went through for our freedom.
The morning spent at the Fort was tough and gave us lots of things to think about and be grateful for in our lives. That evening, we decided we should do something a little more light hearted and it just so happened that Lithuania was playing in the EuroBasket Final against Spain.
3 Million
We set off for Zalgiris Arena to watch the basketball game on the big screen with the rest of the family we were staying with, alongside 20,000 other patriotic Lithuanians. The arena is actually the largest indoor stadium in the Baltics. Now don’t get me wrong, it’s no Wembley Stadium but its smaller size does allow for a more intimate feel to the events that are held there.
We ended up in a private box due to a family connection and what an experience that was! Whenever I go to an arena it’s either for a gig where I’m a hot sweaty mess in the pit, or for a sports game where I’m sat in the stands. This was very different, the best part was having someone come to take your drinks and food order without having to queue up at the snack shacks and worry about people pushing in front of you! My favourite snack was essentially fried bread drenched in garlic – not good if you’re heading out for the night but for me it was perfect.
The game itself was great, everyone was really into it and so supportive for their national team. Lithuania gave it a good go but they eventually lost the game to the Spaniards. This is an interesting thing, in England we would be upset, disappointed and pointing out flaws with our players, but the Lithuanians reacted in a very different way.
At the end of the game, the Lithuanians in the stadium erupted into song with the country’s popular sports anthem called ‘Trys Milijonai’, which translates to ‘3 Million’. The song was introduced at the 2000 Olympics and has been in the hearts of the nation at most major sporting events ever since, especially basketball which is the country’s national sport. The song is sung whether they win or lose and shows that the country is just happy they tried their best, although they are only a country of 3 million people.
There was something really heart-warming about this experience, the country had just lost the final in their favourite sport and they were singing a happy song about it! It was a very humbling experience for me and my husband who unleashed his inner Lithuanian and gave the song a good go, even though he couldn’t quite remember all of the words!
The next day our time in Lithuania was over and we headed back to the airport after saying our goodbyes. We had an unforgettable experience across the country and saw more than we ever thought we would in just one week.
Regardless of whether my husband is Lithuanian or not, this small Baltic country will always hold a special place in my heart for its natural beauty and embracement of the simple things in life.
